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Here you will find some of the most commonly asked questions we hear and maybe some that aren't too common but you would still ask if you thought about it. ;-) Click on the question to see the answer.

What colors do we have?

What do we feed our cats?

Do we guarantee the kittens health?

 Why do we have a kitten contract?

What kind of litter do we recommend?

Why do we spay/neuter the kittens at 12 weeks old?

Why won't you let the kittens go to new homes before 12 weeks?

 

What point colors do we have?

The Traditional Siamese originally came in four point colors: Seal, Chocolate, Blue, and Lilac. These are the only four colors we breed. Most people don't know that Siamese are born all white with pink noses and pink feet. The gene responsible for the colour at their extremities is heat sensitive and since there is less blood flow at the extremities these areas get darker. Siamese from warmer climates are always lighter in colour than Siamese from colder climates. As they age week by week their color points become more evident. By about 6 to 7 weeks old we are pretty sure what colors they will be.

 

What do we feed our cats?

We start our kittens off with high quality canned food such as California Natural, Merricks, Holistic Select, Wellness, etc. and Royal Canin Baby Cat kibble as their first solid food. At 8 weeks or so we also give them Royal Canin Kitten 36 dry food. Normally we do not believe in feeding our cats dry foods containing grains. The only reason we start them off with Royal Canin is the crunchability and size of the kibble. Unfortunately, with the higher quality foods listed in the next paragraph, although the kibble might be small enough for young kittens the food is so dense and hard that the kittens cannot crunch it. By the time the kittens are 10 to12 weeks, when they have the run of the house, they are pretty much switched over to one of the no-grain foods we feed the adults. There are a few different super premium no-grain foods on the market but we usually stick with Acana. Some other foods in this category are Solid Gold, Orijen, and Go Natural. We strongly believe that foods of this quality will ensure our cats live a very long and healthy life with minimal problems when they become senior citizens. All of the no-grain foods are considered super premium foods and in our opinion are the best food nutritionally for your kitten/cat. All of the cats and kittens are free-fed the dry food and the kittens and nursing moms also get some canned food in the morning.

Most people do not realize that the first three ingredients of any food are about 75 to 80% of what's in the bag. If meat is the first ingredient and grains are the second and third ingredient, the combination of ingredients 2 and 3 together is more than ingredient number 1 so you are really feeding your cat a grain based diet. By nature, all cats are carnivores with a biological need for fresh meat proteins and very few carbohydrates. If you want your fur family members to enjoy a long, healthy, trouble-free life you need to feed them a real meat based diet, not a diet based on mostly grains and vegetables.

The bottom line is we (like you) want to feed our cats the best food available to ensure they remain happy and healthy for a very long time. That's why we recommend the foods listed above. We know the grain-free foods are the best.

Just like some 100 year old people are still alive after a lifetime of smoking and drinking, your cat may live a long time eating a cheaper, grain based food but are they healthy? For your cat the more real meat or fish there is in the first three ingredients the healthier your cat will be when he/she gets older. So why take a chance with your cats health just to save a few dollars?

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Our Health Guarantee

Our kittens are examined by a Vet at 8 weeks when they receive their first set of shots and again at 12 weeks when they receive their second set of shots and get spayed or neutered. The kittens are also wormed at 8 and 12 weeks.

Although we know our cats carry no serious diseases, our health guarantee is your assurance against any genetic or hereditary problems. We guarantee to replace any kitten found to have a genetic defect in their first year.

You can find our health guarantee here on the contract page or here as a PDF document.

One reason we keep our kittens for 12 weeks before we let them go to their new home is to ensure they are healthy, fully litter trained, well socialized and eating well on their own. We will not let them go until all of these goals are met. We know that the kittens are in excellent health when they leave our home and we expect you to take your kitten to your vet within 72 hours so you too will know the same.

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Our Kitten Contract

We want to make sure you realize how serious we take letting you adopt one of our fur babies. So we have a Sales Contract, (PDF),  that must be signed and agreed to by both parties before the kitten leaves our home. This is a legal document that gives us the right to seize the kitten if it is mistreated, neglected, or not fed a healthy nutritious diet.

Our primary goal in having a signed contract is to ensure that our babies will continue to have a happy home where they will be loved and cherished for their hopefully very long life. Therefore we want to do everything we can to make sure the fit between you and one of our babies is the right one.

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Litter

We have tried almost every litter on the market and we have found Nature's Miracle to be the best. This is a corn based, scoopable, and flushable litter. It is really dust free and lasts a long time. We have 16 litter boxes in our house and Naomi cleans them every day. She just scoops out the lumps and about once a week adds a little more litter to the box. They are never completely dumped.

We have had many people come to our house who are amazed that with 20 cats in the house there is no litter box smell (and we have 22 litter boxes). We can't say enough about how good this litter is. If your local pet store does not stock it ask him to bring it in for you. you won't regret it. Trust me.

Litters we do not recommend.......

Scoopable, clay based litters - do not use this litter!. Here's why: Clay based litters get almost as hard as cement when it gets wet. After the cat has used the box they often lick their paws clean. When they do this they ingest the clay litter. This litter, over time, can cause blockages in the cat's digestive systems and/or bowels resulting in death or very expensive surgery. Kittens are particularly susceptible to this. Clay based litter is also very dusty. Besides the dust getting all over everything in your house, the kitten or cat will breath in this dust which can cause blockages of the nasal passages.

Wheat based litters - we have found that urine will also turn these litters almost into cement to the point where the litter scoop will break and you have to use a knife to chip it out. Seriously, Naomi had to do that. Not to mention the wet wheat smell when you come in the house.

Whatever you choose to use make sure it is of natural ingredients that will not harm your cat. Here is a very interesting web site about various types of litter and the dangers of using clay based products.

http://www.thelighthouseonline.com/catmomtoc.html

http://www.thelighthouseonline.com/articles/clump.html

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Early Spay/Neuter

 After extensive research on this topic we came to the conclusion that early altering is a very good policy. There are no adverse effects to this procedure other than the fact that early spay/neuter results in a slightly longer growth period. As a result of the extended period of growth, the length of the long bones is increased in animals neutered at a young age and the animal's size will be a bit larger at adulthood. While this effect is well documented, it is not at all dramatic and should not be envisioned as a "King Kong" type of effect. The American Veterinarian Medical Association endorsed the concept of early age altering in 1993.

Some vets do not believe in prepuberal altering and they are entitled to their beliefs. But bear in mind, not all doctors are 100% correct in their beliefs. I strongly urge you to do your own research on this subject just as we did. Here are some links on the topic to get you started. Or you can google "early spay and neuter".

http://maxshouse.com/links_to_early_neutering_articles_.htm some links on this site are broken but most are ok.

http://www.winnfelinehealth.org/Health/spay-neuter.html

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Why we keep our kittens until 13 weeks old

We occasionally hear from people who want to get a kitten that's 8 weeks old or younger. We absolutely will not let our kittens go before 13 weeks. The health and well-being of our kittens is far more important to us than the desires of people who want a very young kitten.

There are critical mental, emotional, and developmental milestones that a kitten experiences between six and twelve weeks of age. Separating the kitten from mother, siblings, and familiar surroundings at that age can cause undue anxiety and stress at the least, and serious medical problems or even death in the very worst cases. For more detailed information on why we have this policy please click here.

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Boys vs Girls

Because our kittens are "fixed" at 12 weeks old they will not develop any of the traits associated with their sex. For instance, boys will never spray to mark their territory.  While both boys and girls will be affectionate we have found that, generally speaking, boys seem to be more affectionate than girls and tend to bond to their human sooner and deeper.

 

 

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